Open the door to this charming restaurant and take a step back in time. The tablecloths are white, and the service is prompt and attentive. Chances are you will spot owner Adelmo Banchetti standing behind an array of large wine bottles that line the tiny, L-shaped bar. He watches over the dining room and greets most customers by name. Banchetti has been serving sophisticated Italian fare since 1989. To some, the menu reads old-fashioned. To others, it is familiar comfort food. The portions are gargantuan, but not because Banchetti plays quantity over quality. Creamy buffalo mozzarella, imported from Italy, sits on top of thick, crusty baguette slices, surrounded by prosciutto di Parma and drizzled with olive oil and sea salt. The appetizer is $14.95, but it is enough for four to share. I don’t see how Banchetti can possibly break even on the dish given the amount of ham on the plate. Tender gnocchi tossed in a Parmigiano, egg yolk, and cream sauce and mixed with prosciutto, peas, and mushrooms is delightfully rich. I stretched the leftovers into two meals. The Super Tuscans on the wine list are pricey, but play it safe with a bottle of Villa Antinori Toscana Rosso 2010, a red, Sangiovese-based blend. Dessert? Cannoli filled with whipped ricotta and chocolate chips.

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